Als - Ærø - Langeland - Tåsinge - Fyn - Lyø - Avernakø - Als

25.06.22 - Bovrup to Mjels Mark

We left our summerhouse on Fanø at 10.00am and when we got to the ferry we joined the queue for the ferry. Unfortunately Saturday is the changeover day for Fanø accommodation and even though they were running three ferries it was 40 minutes before we got onto the ferry. Once on the mainland it took us just over 2 hours to get to our Friends house. After a lovely lunch and a chat with them we parked the car and got the bikes off the car and loaded the panniers. After saying farewell to our friends we headed off. Why is it always uphill when you first start off and it always takes a little while to adjust to having loaded panniers but it was so great to be back on the bikes, you immediately go into a relaxed mood.

We fiddled our way through small lanes and tracks, past fields with oats and barley with beautiful red poppies and blue cornflowers. We soon got to Blans and the road that took us down to the ferry at Ballebro. Unfortunately when we had got there we had just missed the ferry but it was only a 30 minute wait for it to come back again. We had thought that we would aim for a campsite north of Nordburg but as it was 5.00pm already we decided to go to a Shelterplads just south of Mjels. Once on the ferry we paid the ferryman 50 Kr and we were soon docking on the other side at Hardeshøj. Fortunately just up from the harbour there was a toilet so we were able to fill our water carrier. It wasn't far to the Shelterplads which we found in a small wood. It was a nice secluded spot but the only problem with it was that there were two large ponds close by and there were some hungry mosquitos. We managed to keep most of them at bay whilst we made our evening meal but when we tried to settle down for the night there were just too many and we decided that wouldn't get much sleep so we decided to pitch the tent. Fortunately there was a space big enough to the left of the Shelter. Once we were in the tent we were mozzie free and we could then get some sleep.

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26.06.22 - Mjels Mark to Søby

Frank woke early at 6.30am and although we were shaded by the trees it seemed to be already hot in the tent. We decided to quickly pack our gear and the tent before it got any hotter and go off and have breakfast. To our surprise there weren't too many mosquitos so we could fold up the tent and load the bikes in peace. Our intention was to ride to Nordburg and then down to Fynshav to catch the ferry to Ærø. Our route took us to Mjels where we found a small picnic spot overlooking the Mjels Sø. It had several picnic benches, a bin and if it had had a bit of shade it would have been perfect. We were just grateful to have somewhere to brew up and have breakfast. After a couple of mugs of tea and a bacon sandwich we were back on the road. It was getting hot already and it was only 9.00am. Our route took us on cycle paths next to the road through to Broballe and past the Elstrup Mølle and then on to meet the main road into Nordburg just south of Oksbøl. On arrival in Nordburg I made the mistake of changing the route, deciding to take the main road as my paper map showed that there was a shop on it and we were in need of picking up some drinks. By the time we had gone way past where it should have been I checked the Locus Pro map on my phone. If only we had stayed on our original route we would have passed a supermarket. Note to self always check the map on the phone and not the paper map you bought 20 years ago! We stopped a guy who was walking up the cycle path and asked where the nearest supermarket was and he said at Guderup or we would have to go back to Nordburg. Fortunately Guderup was on our way so we carried on along the main road on the cycle path.

A little further on we passed the amazingly styled building of the Universe Science Adventure Park just off the 405. Unfortunately the 405 was a gradual climb and we had the wind against us and coupled with the heat of the day it was hard work and we were glad to get to the turn off from the main road into Guderup. We parked the bikes outside the Super Brugsen it was red hot and we were so glad to get inside. We bought some cold drinks, a couple of cinnamon sneglers, fresh milk and some frozen salmon for our tea. We soon had them packed on the bikes with the frozen salmon keeping the milk cool. Fortunately Guderup seemed to be on one of the highest parts of the island of Als as from there we now seem to be going mainly down hill although being glaciated there was some interval training with some short uphill sections. Fortunately there was a good cycle path separate from the road and as we were going down hill we generated our own cooling wind so that it didn't seem quite so hot. At Nyled we stopped at a memorial to the crew of an American B52 bomber that had crash landed in the field nearby, fortunately all the crew survived.

The route continued through very pleasant countryside and when we got to the junction of the main road number 8 there seemed to be a slip road onto the main road. Fortunately I noticed the no entry signs and a car came up the slip road but there was no warning that the cycle path was stopping. It just went straight into it. Very unlike the Danish authorities to do something as stupid as that, they are usually very good with their cycle paths. Once on the cycle path on the main route 8 it was only a short way down to the ferry terminal at Fynshav. When we got there just after 1.00pm there was a ferry loading but it was the ferry going to Bøjden and not the ferry we needed to Ærø which we found out didn't go until 14.35. We looked to find some shade from the blistering sun. There were some picnic benches amongst some trees and we made a brew of tea while we waited. The ferry docked about 14.15 and after off loading all the cars we were soon pushing our bikes on after they had loaded all the cars. The ferry is apparently battery powered and it seemed to speed along quite smartly. Fortunately the sea was quite calm so it was a pleasant crossing and with all the heat I fell asleep on the boat. When we docked at Søby we decided we had had enough for today and headed to the campsite just outside Søby. It was a nice little campsite with a nice owner who showed us to a nice shaded grass area.

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27.06.22 - Sølby

As rain was forecast for all day we decided to stay put at the campsite and sure enough it did rain but we did manage to make a quick ride up to the dagli Brugsen during one of the lulls in the rain to get something for our evening meal.

28.06.22 - Sølby to Rudkøbing

We were away by 10.00am and decided to nip to the Dagli Brugsen to get something for lunch and some drinks as there were no shops on cycle route 91.The rain of yesterday had gone thankfully and it was a lovely sunny day. Our route 91 along Ærø basically hugged the southern coast. We soon passed by the reed beds at Vitsø and it was pleasant cycling again through wheat, barley and rye fields with glimpses of the sea which was to our right. It was again warm but there was at least a bit of a breeze to keep us cool whilst cycling. Most of the route was on tarmac lanes with little traffic and some sections were on tracks with a good gravel surface. Like a lot of southern Denmark Aerø is glaciated topography so there was the classic interval training of some short steep hills. Just after Vieskoven we spotted a 'WC Stranden' sign and as Frank needed to go we turned off the cycle route and down the lane towards the sea and came to a lovely grassy area on top of the cliff with a lovely view over the sea. What was more it had a picnic bench and as it had just gone 12.30 we decided to stop and have a brew and some lunch. It was indeed a lovely spot and we both agreed it would have made a lovely wild camping spot.

After lunch we headed back onto route 91 which twisted and turned its way through very pleasant countryside until just after Lindsberg it met the sea and the route took us along a lovely bay with turquoise blue water until we turned inland to head to Marstal. On reaching Marstal we passed the Super Brugsen but headed straight to the ferry terminal to check the time of the next ferry. On finding the Aerøxpressen office the guy confirmed that the next sailing was indeed 15.50. I still had time to go back to the Super Brugsen and get something for our tea. So I left my rear panniers and racpac with Frank and headed back. I soon got what we needed and headed back to the ferry terminal but I had forgotten the Gifflars for Frank but I had bought some lovely fresh ripe strawberries which we sat eating on a bench by the dock. Just then a couple of French cycletourers came along and we got chatting to them and realised that they had been on the campsite at Søby. They were also catching the ferry to Rudkøbing. While we were waiting for the ferry there were several tall ships leaving the harbour they were all making use of the high tide.

The Rudkøbing ferry soon arrived and we were on our way and as it was a sunny afternoon we sat up on deck and enjoyed the crossing. Out in the channel overtook some of the tall ships that had left Marstal. We soon arrived at the pretty harbour at Rudkøbing and headed into the town. The main street looked lovely with its garlands of Butterfly banners strung across the street. As we passed a Super Brugsen I nipped in to get the gifflars that I had forgotten before heading off to find the campsite which wasn't very far away. The campsite at Rudkøbing is rather nice, there is a hostel there as well as the campsite and it is run by a very nice couple. When I went to the reception to book in the lady was very pleasant and asked us if we would like a complimentary drink, coffee, beer or juice. I said two beers would be lovely. OK I will bring them over to you. Whilst we were putting up our tent the lady came over with a tray with two lovely cold beers and a dish of peanuts. They certainly went down well.

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29.06.22 - Rudkøbing

As we wanted to see a couple of the dolmen graves to the north of the island we decided to stay another night at the campsite at Rudkøbing so we could leave the tent there and travel light without the panniers as it was still very hot. We hadn't had much for breakfast so we nipped into the Super Brugsen and bought a couple of Smorgasbords for our lunch. As we were cycling out of the town Frank thought that we ought to eat the open sandwiches as they had prawns on them and she was concerned that they might go off in the heat. So we stopped at a bus stop where there was a seat. Whilst we were there a lady came along and asked us something in Danish. We replied that we were English and she replied back in good English, she had apparently spent several years living in London before moving back to Denmark and to a house on Langeland. She was wanting to catch a bus to Lohals and wasn't sure which bus stop to use on which side of the road. Hopefully we put her on the right side.

After our Smorgasbord lunch we headed out of town and followed the 9 road east. Fortunately it had a good separate cyclepath and we were soon turning off to the little village of Simmerbølle with its whitewashed church. It was still quite hot as we cycled out of the village and off towards the Dysse Kamre ved Bjergby which is a prehistoric passage grave. When we got there there were some other cyclists there and we had a quick chat with them. The Danes have very good English which makes it easy. From there we headed up the 305 to the village of Tullebølle where we turned off right to get on to the cycle route 81. A few kilometers along the 81 we came to Tvillinghuse where we stopped to have a look at the Tobaksladen which was an old drying barn for tobacco. Just a few kilometers on we came to the Tvede Skov Jættestuen which was a twin Neolithic passage grave. It was in a much better preserved condition than some of the other passage graves we had seen in Denmark. It was of a very similar construction to ones we had seen on the Orkney islands although sadly it was missing its roof. We had considered heading further north on the island but it was getting late so we headed back to Rudkøbing the same way that we had come.

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30.06.22 - Rudkøbing to Bagenkop

It was an early start as there was no shade from the early morning sun. We decided to pack up the tent and load the bikes and have our breakfast in the campsite kitchen. It was going to be another hot day in full sunshine so we made sure that the water bottles were all full and lathered on the sun cream before setting off. Our route 82 south from Rudkøbing was initially on the main road but we were soon turning off the main road and onto some quieter country roads which took us to the village of Lindelse with its lovely whitewashed Kirke. Whilst we sheltered from the hot sun and having a drink under some Lime trees by the Kirke we saw a lovely Lime hawk-moth (Mimas tiliae) on the ground, so we carefully picked it up and placed it on one of the Lime trees. We carried on along route 82 and stopped at Kaedeby to have a look at the Kong Humbles Grav. I initially missed the turning as the turning was to an industrial estate and not what we were expecting. After turning around and going past the industrial estate we came to a small car park and grassy picnic area at the end of the track. We left our bikes there and we then walked down the footpath and across a field of barley to the typical boat shaped barrow with the stone grave in the middle. It was a lovely situation and you could understand why it was chosen as a burial site.

After our visit we headed for Humble where we found a supermarket so we could buy something for our lunch and found a picnic bench on a green space opposite the Spar supermarket. Frank decided to make her own version of the smorgsbord but it wasn’t quite up to the Danish standards. As we were going through Humble we found the understated ‘Humble pizzeria’ and a rather unusual display of toilets all set out in a row along the street in front of a house with pictures of people on them. It was apparently to celebrate someone's 30th birthday! Shortly after Humble we turned off our route to go and see the Neolithic long Dolmen and passage graves of Renehuse. It contained two Dolmen chambers and two Passage grave chambers and two other burial chambers from the Neolithic period (3500 - 3100 BC). Apparently this is quite unusual to have seven graves in one long barrow. The barrow itself is missing but the grave stones were still visible. From there we got back onto route 82 and we headed for Bagenkop. The route was lovely through fields of barley with wildflowers by the side of the road and it took us past the lovely Nørelleballe Nor lake. Just after the lake I heard what I thought was a nightingdale singing and managed to get a photo of it, which was quite a surprise as they are not easy to spot. When we got to Bagenkop campsite we pitched the tent and cycled into Bagenkop to have a look at the harbour which was quite interesting with its various fishing vessels and boats in the marina, one of which was the lovely sailing vessel Atalanta.

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01.07.22 - Bagenkop

It rained solidly for most of the day so we decided to stay put, but we did manage in the late afternoon to get to the Dagli Brugsen to buy something for our evening meal and breakfast.

02.07.22 - Bagenkop to Rudkøbing

Unlike yesterday we woke up to clear skies and after some breakfast packed up the tent and headed a few kilometers from the campsite to Langeland Fort. It is another previous Cold War Danish defense fort very much like the Stevnsfort we had visited on our Danmark tour in 2018. Unlike that fort this one wasn't buried as deep into the chalk. It consisted of several smaller bunkers which were not interconnected but had similar naval guns to the ones we had seen at Stevnsfort. As well as the bunkers there were hangers with aircraft and boats and even a submarine.

After our visit we found a picnic bench near the car park to have our lunch before setting off to Rudkøbing. It was a lovely ride back to Rudkøbing through very pleasant countryside. We were initially on the 305 road which didn’t have too much traffic on it and when we got to Tryggelev we turned off the main road and took some quiet lanes our through the villages of Ore, Fodslette and Hennetved until we got back to Lindelse with its lovely white washed church contrasting nicely with its red tiled roof. From there we followed route 82 back to Rudkøbing. When we got back to the campsite the owner was really pleased to see us back and she gave us another complementary beer, which was most welcome.

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03.07.22 - Rudkøbing to Naabe

We were up fairly early this morning. There was a bit of the cloud in the sky this morning so it wasn’t too hot to pack the kit and the tent away. We had breakfast in the campsite kitchen and then said our goodbyes to the nice lady owner and thanked her for having such a lovely campsite. Our plan was to head on to the islands of Siø, Tåsinge and Fyn heading towards Faaborg and aiming to camp at a campsite on the coast at Naabe. We followed Eurovello route 10 out of Rudkøbing which took us to meet the main road 9. Fortunately it has a separate cycle path so we didn't have to fight with the traffic and we were soon cycling over the Langelandsbroen the bridge that was built in 1962 to connect Langeland to Siø. We stopped in the middle to have a look at the Synfynkse Øhav which must be a shallow stretch of water as there is a very narrow channel for boats that runs under the bridge. We were soon on to the island of Sio. It has an area of only 1.3 km2, it has about 6 houses on it and a population of 16. In 1959, it was connected to Tåsinge by a causeway and a low bridge and, in 1962, to Langeland by the bridge that we had just crossed. It was only a few minutes to get across iø and we were crossing the causeway to Tåsinge. The cloud had by then lifted and the sun was out and the main road was hot and noisy so we were glad to turn off onto the Nørreveskovvej and take route 8 much as it was a quieter route which took us past the lovely old Valdemars slot. Which had two gated buildings that the road went through. We stopped a little further on at the pretty village of Troense with its beautiful half timbered thatched houses. We found a shop there and sat eating ice-creams under some lime trees that were buzzing with the noise of bees that were feeding on the lime tree flowers. As it was nearly lunch time we decided to have a brew and something to eat.

A little further on there was a marina and there was a beautiful four masted tall ship the Atlantis coming up the channel. From Troense we headed off towards Svendborg and met the route 9 road again. There was a good separate cycle path along the side of the road that took us across the bridge that linked the islands of Fyn and Tåsinge. On reaching the other side of the bridge the cycle route took us alongside the coast to Rantzausminde and Lehnskov Strand where we turned inland. We were in full sunshine now and it was getting really hot so we stopped at Ballen Havn marina in shade of some trees to have something to eat and to have a brew.From there it was through some very pleasant countryside of barley and rye fields but it was really hard work in heat. At one point we cycled through an enormous swarm of thunder flies and we were absolutely covered in the wee beasties and I could feel them crawling in my hair and beard. We finally got to Naabe and found the campsite which was right next to the sea and was really good. While I was booking in at reception I noticed that they had some lovely cold beers in their fridge so we had a couple which went down a treat after that hot ride. As we were putting up our tent we could hear thunderstorms and could see rain showers across the water. Later as we were coming back from our showers in the campsite facilities we had a really heavy shower and hadn’t taken our waterproofs with us so we had to leg it to get to our tent. We almost had two showers that night!

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04.07.22 - Naabe to Lyø

One of the nice things about Denmark is the well run and pleasant campsites which have generally excellent facilities and this campsite was no exception, it had one of the best kitchens and dining areas we have used. Thinking back to all our tours in Denmark I can’t think of a bad Danish campsite. The only one that was a bit dubious was the site at Rødvig on our last tour in Denmark. It was run by an English couple and the guy was so rude he made Basil Fawlty seem like a pussy cat. It was raining as we left the campsite and I heard something rubbing on my front wheel and I stopped to have a look. My front mudguard had sheared off where it joined the front forks. I couldn't quite believe it, the only thing that could have caused it was when my bike fell over when we were loading it up at the campsite. So much for these SKS mudguards that are supposed to be tough and impact resistant, I wasn't impressed. I managed with a few cable ties to hold it on and we continued on our way. It didn't take us long to get to Faaborg. We stopped at the ferry terminal to find the times of the ferry to Lyø. The ferry wasn't for a couple of hours so we had time to go to Super Brügsen in town to buy something for our lunch and our evening meal. Faaborg is a lovely town with some beautiful half timbered houses with lovely orange ochre painted walls contrasting with the black stained timbers with Hollyhocks growing in front of them. In fact they were very proud of their Holyhocks and they had little stalls where you could buy packets of Hollyhock seed.

After having a look around Faaborg we went back to the ferry terminal to wait for the ferry to Lyø. Whilst standing in the queue for the ferry a guy came down the queue selling the tickets. I asked for 2 tickets to "lie-oh", where he replied so I pointed to my map and he said you mean "Luo" which apparently is the pronunciation of Lyø. It is easy with Danish pronunciation as the island of Fanø is pronounced "Fay-no". Apparently the ø at the end of the name means island. Whilst we were waiting for the ferry we could see all this foam billowing out from it and clouds of it blew out in the wind and covered us as we stood there. I asked the ticket guy why all the foam. Apparently there had been a spillage and they were trying to clean the car deck. When we got on to the ferry the car deck was about a foot deep in foam and on arrival on Lyø as they opened the bow doors all the foam poured out. As we walked our bikes several people asked us about the foam as they had wondered if there had been a fire on the ferry. They were relieved when we told them that they had been cleaning the car deck from a spillage. Most of the passengers coming off the ferry were on foot and they all headed up what is the only road from the harbour. As we were on bikes we soon overtook them and it didn't take us long to find the campsite. It was a nice little site with new facilities, with the tent pitched we set off with the bikes for a ride around the island.

Lyø is a beautiful little island and is part of the South Funen Archipelago and is only 6 square kilometers. It has only a few inhabitants most of whom are farmers so the land is all mainly farmland. We decided to go straight out and explore the island. Our first place to visit was the Klokkestenen neolithic barrow. The name of the stone comes from a very special ability that when you hit the stone with another stone you get ringing notes. The stone was placed on Lyø around 3500-3100 BC. The legend says that if the stone releases its noise when you hit it, you can get one wish to come true. We headed further along lovely quiet lanes past an old windmill and more farmhouses before turning right down the Søndenvej to have a look at the southern coast of the island and along the lane we spotted a Hare which ran across the road. A little further along we came across the Wind Telephone. The idea for the wind phone originated in Japan where Itaru Sasaki mourned his deceased cousin whom he lost in 2010. He got the idea to buy a telephone box and placed it overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Every day he called his cousin and the words flew with the wind. Hence the name "wind phone". When we got to the end of the lane at the coast we left the bikes and had a walk along the shoreline and spotted a pair of Gossanders and several Shag. It was a lovely evening as we headed back along the Søndenvej and headed east along Søndengyden passing a wonderful garden wall which had Lavender planted on it which was a beautiful colour and smell divine. Further along we turned along Lyø Bygade and came across a lovely big pond which had white half timbered houses around it. We were getting hungry by now and in need of a cup of tea so headed back to the campsite..

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05.07.22 - Lyø to Avernakø to Faaborg

As we were sitting in the tent having our breakfast I saw a Hare hopping along the grass to the right of the tent and quickly got the camera out. Using the tent as a hide it came really close and we got some great views of it preening and grazing on the grass. Our plan for the day was to catch the ferry to Avanakø and spend the day looking around Avenakø and then catch the ferry back to Faaborg. Our ferry wasn’t until 10 :40 so we had a leisurely breakfast before heading down to the harbour. The ferry was a little delayed and we didn’t get to Avernakø until 11:30. The early morning had been sunny but it was now overcast, there was a cold wind and it looked like it was going to rain. We noticed the Havnecafé and decided that a warm coffee would be in order. It was a lovely little cafe with two very nice owners. As it was getting close to 12.00 we thought we might as well stop and have some lunch and they served us up a couple of very tasty burgers.

We had made a good decision as a heavy rain shower came through whilst we were eating. As we headed off to explore Avernakø the weather was improving and we were soon passing the Avernakø Kirke. There were fields of wheat and barley but at one point on our route there was a wonderful field full of red poppies. The field margins of some of the fields were also planted with wildflowers which made a lovely sight. We soon came to the Drejet, which is the Isthmus that connects Averakø to Korshavn. It was originally only passable at low tide but people making the crossing would still get their feet wet and in high winds it was dangerous to cross. Apparently four people lost their lives trying to cross the Drejet, the last one being in 1868. The uncertainty of the crossing prevented folk from Korshavn from getting to the church at Avernakø and the ferry to Faaborg. They started to build a causeway along the Drejet in 1930 and finished it in 1937. As we passed over the causeway the skies to the south were very black and we thought that we were in for a wetting, but fortunately the storm cloud passed us by. Once on Korshavn we stopped at the little havn that gives the island its name. There were a few small boats there and I spotted a Goosander which was quite close to the jetty. We cycled on to the far end of the island and found the basic campsite which fortunately for us had a toilet albeit a composting one. There was a picnic table on the small camping ground so we took the opportunity to stop and have a brew.

After being suitably refreshed we headed back the way we had come as there is only one road on Korshavn and back over the causeway to Avernakø where we took the southerly Skalevej. This took us past one of the two lovely Maypoles on Avernakø, the Stendysser Neolithic Dolmen and the Skallevej nature reserve where there are several ponds with the rare Fire-bellied toads. Unfortunately due to our need to catch our ferry we didn’t have the time to go and look for them. On arriving back at the ferry terminal we had a short wait for the ferry but was entertained by the sight of the Dutch triple masted barque Artemis coming into dock for the night. Unfortunately the mooring it was trying to get into was a little shallower than its draught and it kept grounding leaving it meters away from the quay. The captain had several attempts at trying to get into the mooring. There was another Dutch sailing ship the Jantje already moored who dropped its tender to try and help. Unfortunately we never found out if the vessel actually got into the mooring as our Faaborg ferry arrived. We were soon back in Faaborg and were going to camp at the campsite that was just a few kilometers out of town. We knew the way to the Super Brugsen which was luckily on our route to the campsite so we were able to pick up some food for our evening meal. The faaborg campsite was very nice and the owner found us a nice spot that would be in shade from the morning sun.

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06.07.22 - Faaborg to Madeskov

The campsite at Faaborg was lovely and quiet so we had a good night's sleep. We packed up the tent and headed for the campsite kitchen to cook our breakfast. Suitably refreshed we headed out of the campsite and back initially into Faaborg before taking a quiet back road to Horne. Horne has a very unusual Kirke compared to most Danish churches as it is a round church built in the middle ages with a bell tower and two square entrances added at a later date. As we rode through Horne it is a pretty village with many half timbered traditional houses and farmsteads. We were soon on to the Hordelandvej the main road 8 which was to take us to the Bøjden Færgehavn. Unfortunately it didn't have a cycle path but there wasn’t too much traffic on it . Part way along the Hordelandvej there was a wonderful field of poppies which we stopped to take a panorama photo as it looked so lovely. Fortunately the road was quite flat so it didn’t take too long to get to Bøjden Færgehavn to catch our ferry to Fynshavn. Luckily we didn’t have to wait too long for the Bøjden to Fynshavn ferry to arrive as they go every hour and the turn around at the ferry terminal is quite quick.

It was long before we were back at the Fynshavn and were climbing up from Fynnshavn on the 8. Unlike the last time we were here it was sunny but not nearly as hot! Although there wasn't a separate cycle path on the 8 there was a hard shoulder and not too much traffic. After an initial climb it was a fairly easy cycle along the 8. We stopped part way along the 8 at the Memorial column for the poet Martin N. Hansen from Almsted Bakke, Als. It was erected in 1993 and it is an unusual memorial as it has brickwork constructed by Aage Birck, with 4 stoneware sculptures by Heidi Guthmann Birck. It didn’t take us too long to get along the main road and at the roundabout where there is the Kuben sculpture by Piet Hein we gained a separate cycle path which took us towards Sønderborg and our campsite at Madeskov which was just outside of Sønderborg. We decided to go straight to the campsite and pitch the tent and then come out later to find a supermarket. When we arrived at the campsite reception we met John, what a lovely friendly guy. He said I have just the place for you with a lovely view of the Augustenborg Fjord and took us around to it. And he was certainly right it was perfect. It was a separate little grassy area right next to the fjord with indeed a lovely view,

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07.07.22 - Madeskov

Well John was right it was a lovely spot for us and as we didn’t have far to get back to Karsten’s to pick up the car and we had a day in hand, as it was a nice day we decided to stay another night at this lovely campsite. We spent the day exploring the banks of the Augustenborg Fjord watching a rowing race and in the evening we were treated to an absolutely stunning sunset which made a lovely ending to what had been a lovely Danish tour. We would highly recommend island hopping through these southern Danish islands. They are absolutely delightful.

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08.07.22 - Madeskov to Bovrup

After the lovely day yesterday we woke to rather gray skies. We packed up the tent and had our breakfast in the campsite kitchen. We said our goodbyes to John and thanked him for his lovely campsite and headed into Sønderborg. Sønderborg is built on the Als side of the Alssund which is the bit of water that separates the island of Als with the mainland. There was initially only one bridge to get from Sønderborg to the mainland until they opened the motorway bridge to the north. To get over the Alssund to the mainland we had to cross the King Christian X's Bridge which was opened in 1937 by King Christian X, hence the name. It has an opening section to allow vessels through but we didn’t get stopped and then we soon found our way onto the Aabenenravej which took us out of the suburbs of Sønderborg to get us to the 41 and Bovrup. The 41 was a bit of a straight road but it was the only way to get back to Karsten’s to pick up our car. There was a bit of a chilly wind but luckily it wasn’t too hilly and we made good time. We were soon back to Karsten’s by 12.00 and we thought he wouldn’t be there but he had decided to work from home that day. We had time for a good chat with him and he was keen to find out exactly where we had been. We thanked him so much for looking after our car and kite trailer as without his generosity we wouldn’t have been able to do the tour and then left for Germany and home.